Can you judge a book by the cover? How about wine by the label on the bottle? I’m pleased to report that with few exceptions, the wines with compelling enough labels to be reviewed on this site have been equally impressive in their quality. Can the same be assumed to the contrary? Value wines often tip their hand from a quality perspective. They look their price point and you can lower your expectations accordingly.
Cheesy novelty packaging is another reason to be suspect. The first time I saw Smiley Rosé I banished the thought of ever buying it. Shelves are filled with rosé wines from around the world. Some with extraordinarily elegant packaging. Yet there, in the middle of them all, was this bottle with a bubblegum pink smiley face beaming with annoying pleasantly. Ugh!
I would view Smiley with the same disdain twice more before stopping to pick up the bottle. It was unique and unusual so fodder for review if nothing else. Scanning the bottle at arms length revealed the first surprise. Beneath the plasticized smiley face is printed, Rosé Made in France. France? Seriously? I turned to the back label. Another surprise. This wine is produced by Chateau de l’Orangerie from the Bordeaux region. This is a very legitimate winemaker. Would they sweeten a product to be sold in pop culture packaging for mass appeal? The answer is no.
Yet another surprise. This wine is pretty good. Fairly dry. Flavours of plums and cherries with good structure and balance. Who would have guessed? And…is that a problem?
I realize that my reaction to this package doesn’t reflect what all would think. I’m sure some would adore the cute, pink smiley face. What quality associations pair with that? There are many sweet rosés on the market these days. Doesn’t this packaging suggest it would be one of them? Conversely, would someone looking for a dry, French rosé believe Smiley was worth considering?
Package design is about communication. Yes, it needs to command attention and engage the consumer. It also needs to express the product. Smiley misrepresents. Many who would enjoy this wine wouldn’t give it a chance because of the novelty packaging. They would also be most likely to repurchase.
